The island of the Knights
Welcome to Rhodes, the capital of the
Dodecanese, an island which is ideal not only for those who want to
relax but also for those looking for an action-packed holiday! With its
bright green hills, rich green valleys and uninterrupted line of golden
beaches, Rhodes is truly a blessed place. Add in the excellent
facilities for tourism, the island’s special blend of cosmopolitan and
traditional, and numerous cultural and archaeological sites and you’ve
got the perfect holiday destination.
Thanks
to its strategic position, Rhodes has been important since ancient
times. The ancient city of Rhodes, the construction of which began in
407 BC, was designed according to the city planning system devised by
the greatest city planner of antiquity, Hippodamus of Miletus. Rhodes
soon developed into one of the most important seafaring and trading
centres in the Eastern Mediterranean. When it became a province of the
Roman, and later the Byzantine Empire, it initially lost its ancient
glory. But in 1309 the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem conquered
Rhodes. They built strong fortifications to protect the island, turning
it into an important administrative centre and a thriving multinational
medieval city. In 1523 Rhodes was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, and
the Greeks had to settle outside the city walls. During the Ottoman
occupation, new buildings were erected within the Old Town, mainly
mosques and baths. In 1912 Rhodes and the rest of the Dodecanese, were
seized by the Italians. The new rulers embellished the city with
magnificent buildings, wide roads and squares. The Palace of the Grand
Master was rebuilt and the Street of the Knights was reconstructed in
order to regain its medieval purity. It was not until 1948 that Rhodes
officially became part of Greece. In 1988 the Medieval City of Rhodes
was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Old Town
As
you enter one of the largest medieval towns in Europe through the Gate
of Freedom, it soon becomes obvious that the Old Town of Rhodes is a
mosaic of different cultures and civilizations; rarely does a visitor
have the chance to stroll within medieval walls and explore twenty-four
centuries of history. The fascinating medieval fortress-like buildings,
the bastions, walls, gates, narrow alleys, minarets, old houses,
fountains, tranquil and busy squares make it feel like you have stepped
back into medieval times. The Palace of the Grand Master is certainly
the highlight of the Old Town. The Palace, originally a Byzantine
fortress built at the end of the 7th century A.D., was converted in the
early 14th century by the Knights of the Order of Saint John into the
residence of the Grand Master of the order and the administrative
headquarters of their state; now it has been turned into a museum.
The
cobblestoned Street of the Knights, one of the best preserved medieval
streets in Europe, is packed with medieval inns that used to play host
to the soldiers of the Order of the Knights. At the end of the Street,
in the Museum Square, stands the Hospital of the Knights, which houses
the Archaeological Museum. Across the square is the Church of Our Lady
of the Castle, the Orthodox Cathedral of Rhodes in Byzantine times that
became the Catholic Cathedral when the Knights occupied the city. Now it
hosts the Byzantine Museum. Polidorou Street leads to a square with
outdoor cafés and restaurants. Moving on, you enter Sokratous Street –
always buzzing with life thanks to its cluster of cafés and shops –
which leads down from the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent towards the
harbour. If you decide to take a detour and head off for Arionos
Square, don’t forget to stroll around the “Turkish district”, where you
will find the Mustafa Pasha Mosque and the 16th century “Yeni Hammam”
(Turkish Baths).
Outside the walls…
Outside
the walls of the Old Town lies the “new” city, with its magnificent
Venetian, neoclassic and modern buildings. Among the most remarkable
buildings that keep the memories of the island's Italian period alive
are the Post Office, constructed by the Italian architect Florestano di
Fausto, the Prefecture of the Dodecanese, formerly the Italian
Governor's Palace that resembles the Doge's Palace in Venice,
Evangelismos Church (Church of the Annunciation), the Town Hall and the
National Theatre.
A stroll around Mandráki, the small marina with
the Rhodian deer statues at its entrance and the surrounding windmills,
is an experience not to be missed. The multicultural character of
Rhodes is also evident in this part of the city, since next to the
Prefecture stands the Murat Reis Mosque with its elegant minaret. Enjoy
the sun and the sea at cosmopolitan Elli beach at the northern tip of
Rhodes town, which is lined with modern hotels. Here you will also find
the beautifully renovated historic Grande Albergo delle Rose, which
today operates as a Casino. A visit to the Aquarium, one of the most
important marine research centres in Greece, is a must! In the
underground aquarium, reminiscent of an underwater cave, the visitor can
see many of the species living in the Aegean.
On the other side
of the city you can visit Rodíni Park, a true paradise with many
peacocks, streams and paths amidst oleander bushes, cypress, maple and
pine trees. Rodini is said to be the site of the famous School of
Rhetoric, where prominent Greeks and Romans, including Julius Caesar,
Cato the Younger, Cicero, Pompey, Brutus, Cassius and Marc Anthony,
studied. Saint Stefanos Hill (known as Monte Smith) marks the site of
the Acropolis, one of the most important centres of worship, education
and recreation in ancient times on Rhodes. At the top of the hill you
will find the remains of the Temple of Apollo, a Hellenistic stadium and
a gymnasium.
Around the island….
As you head
down to the east coast, the first tempting stop is Kallithéa, a
cosmopolitan holiday resort bustling with hotels lining Faliráki beach.
In Kallithéa the main attraction is the Roman baths – a unique example
of orientalised Art Deco from 1929 – and the long sandy beach of
Faliráki. The picturesque small bay at Ladikó (where the film “The Guns
of Navarone” was shot) and the scenic “Anthony Quinn” Bay are just some
of the beautiful beaches where you can bask! If you are interested in
learning more about the local traditions of Rhodes visit Koskinoú, a
traditional village where the house facades are painted in bright
colours, the lovely courtyards are paved with pebbles and the houses are
decorated inside with ceramic plates and hand-woven textiles.
Ialissós
(or Triánda) used to be one of the three powerful cities of ancient
Rhodes which acquired great fame thanks to the Olympic Champion
Diagoras. Today Ialissós is a popular cosmopolitan resort; its beach is a
favourite destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing and sailing
enthusiasts. Basking in the lush green of pine trees and cypresses, on
the slopes of Filérimos (meaning “lover of solitude”) Hill stands the
Monastery of the Virgin Mary and the ruins of an ancient acropolis. In
Byzantine times, there was a fortress on the hill which, in the 13th
century, became a monastery dedicated to Holy Mary. It was beautifully
restored at a later stage by the Italians and the British. Directly in
front of the church there are the ruins of 3rd century temples of Zeus
and Athena. Visitors can walk up the “Via Crucis”, which leads to an
enormous crucifix. The view from there out over Ialissós Bay is
stunning. Illuminated at night, the crucifix is clearly visible even
from the nearby island of Sými.
In
the verdant area of Afándou you can either bask on beautiful sandy
beaches or play golf on a modern 18-hole golf course (close to Afándou
beach) that is open all year round and attracts golf enthusiasts from
all over the world! The road from the beautiful seaside resort of
Kolimbia leads through a forest and along the banks of the River
Loutanis to Archipoli, a picturesque rural village. The route is ideal
for walking or cycling.
The area of Petaloúdes (meaning
Butterflies) includes the villages of Kremastí, Paradísi and Theológos.
Kremastí, one of the biggest and liveliest settlements on the island, is
famous for its major festival of the Virgin Mary on 15th August, while
the beach of Kremastí is perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing.
However, the most fascinating and popular attraction of the region is
the Valley of the Butterflies, a habitat of unique value for the
reproduction of the Panaxia Quadripunctaria butterfly. Admire an
atmosphere of incomparable beauty with lush vegetation and streams as
you stroll along cleverly laid paths. Also well worth a visit in the
Valley is the Museum of Natural History.
Archángelos
was rebuilt in medieval times away from its initial site by the sea (to
guard it from pirate raids) and the Knights of Saint John later
protected it by building a castle. The tradition of ancient arts and
crafts – such as pottery and hand-made tapestries – is more evident in
Archángelos than anywhere else. The locals live a more simple life
style, almost untouched by the rapid growth in tourism elsewhere on the
island and still reverentially maintain their age-old traditions,
customs, their local dialect and even the distinctive decoration of
their houses. The area is famous for its golden beaches, such as
Tsambíka Beach at the foot of a steep cliff, where there is also the
famous monastery of the Virgin Mary. Stegna is a picturesque resort
close to Archángelos, while at Haraki (with its idyllic small bay)
visitors can see the ruins of a medieval castle: Faraklos. At the
northern edge of the region lies “Eptá Piyés” (Seven Springs), a green
valley with clear flowing waters and covered with enormous plane and
pine trees.
Kámiros was one of the three most powerful cities of
ancient Rhodes and flourished during the 6th and 5th century BC. The
ruins of the city and the neighbouring necropolis were discovered in
1859; magnificent public buildings, a market, temples, houses and an
acropolis on the hill top bear eloquent witness to the splendour and
wealth of ancient Kámiros. It is also worth exploring the surrounding
villages, such as Soroni on the north coast and Fanes to the south, a
nice spot for kitesurfing and windsurfing. The road from Kalavarda leads
you to Salakos, a traditional village with lush vegetation and flowing
springs. From there you can climb up Profitis Ilias Mountain, with its
classic Italian hotels in the forest and a chapel on the summit. On the
mountain slopes, there are several smaller villages with springs and
age-old plane trees: Eleousa, Platania (“plane trees”), Apolonas and
Dimilia, famous for its Byzantine chapel of Áyios Nikólaos (also called
Fountoukli).
The highest mountain on Rhodes, the imposing Mt.
Atáviros, with its rocky summit and green slopes, is an eternal symbol
of the island. The amazing view will compensate those who will make the
effort to reach its summit! The biggest settlement in the region is
Embonas. Built on a mountainside covered with vineyards, the village is
famous for its excellent wines. If you want to escape the crowds,
explore the rocky coast and bask in small, well-hidden bays, such as
Fournoi, Glyfada or on the beaches of Kritinia. Watching the sunset from
the medieval castles of Atáviros, Kritinia and the 14th century
Monólithos, both built on the summit of an imposing rock, is a richly
rewarding experience.
The
ancient city-state of Líndos was one of the three major towns of
ancient Rhodes thanks to its great naval power. The remains of the
acropolis of Líndos, a natural watchtower facing the open sea built on a
steep rock 116 metres above sea level, bear eloquent witness to its
long standing power and wealth. At the foot of the acropolis lies the
traditional village of Líndos with its cubic whitewashed houses,
mansions, Byzantine churches and narrow cobbled streets. By following a
path through the village or by hiring a donkey from the main square you
can climb to the ancient acropolis, which is surrounded by
well-preserved walls. Here you can see the remains of buildings from
ancient times, the Byzantine era and the era of the Knights, such as the
4th century BC temple of Athena Lindia, the Propylea, the large
Hellenistic arcade, the Byzantine chapel of Ayios Ioannis and the castle
of the Knights of Saint John. You can also enjoy astonishing views of
the town and the sea –an experience not to be missed during your visit
on the island. At Saint Paul’s Bay you can either relax in the azure sea
or have a go at your favourite water sport!
In
southern Rhodes nature is unveiled in all its splendour: sun-drenched
bays stretch from Kiotari and Genadi to Lahania, Plimiri and Prassonisi,
the southernmost tip of the island and a popular location for
windsurfing and kitesurfing. The villages of the area were built in
medieval times, or even earlier, and still maintain their traditional
colour, just as their inhabitants still maintain their local dialect,
traditional customs and even the traditional decoration of their houses.
Follow old paths and discover the beauty of golden fields and shady
woods, gentle hills and valleys –magical landscapes that will rejuvenate
your body and soul.Don’t forget that while you are on the island you
can take the opportunity to go on a daytrip to the following nearby
islands:
-Kastellórizo (or Megisti) is the easternmost island in
Greece, with a long and stormy history. Only 300 people live on the
island today but the town and its magnificent neo-classical houses
reveal the former prosperity of the island.
-A former
sponge-diving centre, Hálki, is famous for its Theological School, which
unfortunately does not operate anymore. Emborio, with its grand houses
and a picturesque waterfront offering fresh fish, is the only inhabited
hamlet on the island. Horio and the Knights’ Castle are both well worth
visiting.
-Beautiful Sými is an hour away by boat from Mandráki,
the port of Rhodes. An island of sponge divers and seamen, Sými used to
have 30,000 inhabitants before the Second World War and was the richest
island in the Dodecanese, despite its small size. Today Sými attracts
many visitors thanks to its beautifully preserved neo-classical
buildings and the famous Archangel Michael monastery at Panormitis.
-To
the north west of Rhodes you will find Tílos, with its imposing
mountains, rocky and steep coasts, beaches with crystal clear water and
caves and medieval castles. The island’s harbour is at Livadia, and from
there you can visit the village of Micró Horió (“Small Village”),
deserted since 1950. At Meyálo Horió (“Big Village) visit the
Palaeontology Museum, where you can see petrified skeletons of dwarf
elephants.
Extra tip for trekking enthusiasts: Following breathtaking
routes on foot is the ideal way to discover the unique natural beauty
of the island: try the two-hour route from Filérimos to the coast
through a magical pine-tree forest, tour the Valley of the Butterflies
(3 hours), go from the village of Salakos to the summit of Profitis
Elias following a breathtaking route that takes 4 hours to complete,
walk from Kritinia Castle to Kritinia village through a lush green
valley (4 hours) or, if you are an experienced hiker, take the
opportunity to conquer the summit of Ataviros, a beautiful six-hour
walk!
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